Cartier sold wallets. Jewellers noticed.
In 1944, Cartier ran a US magazine ad: 'Gifts He'll Love — and Really Use.' Wallets, card cases, leather goods. Not jewellery.
In 1973 Robert Hocq launched Les Must de Cartier — leather goods below the jewellery price, with the same red box. The jewellery division was not consulted.
How to date a Must piece: 'CARTIER PARIS' stamp hand-applied = pre-1990, foil-printed after. Gold-tone hardware tarnishes copper-warm with age — correct, not damage.
